pfft I wrote up a reply last night and then lost it, the salient points of which were:
no idea about grout
I concur with the full-fat coconut milk has more fat than almond milk crowd. I think I've had success using plain ground flax (i wouldn't expect it to be super expensive?) mixed with water in place of eggs once in American pancakes, but it's been a while. A yeasted overnight waffle recipe in one of my cookbooks mentions subbing veg oil for the butter in it (but that doesn't address the milk...)
I am not sure how much I can convey over text, but I grew up "paging through the Reader's Digest Guide to Needlework in clothes mostly sewn by my mom" which lends me the impulse "I can help!", despite not being an expert. (Or too helpful on the mending front, if it's not an actual seam)
My thought is that most hand hemming stitches, while nice for clothes for looks, might be prone to snagging or ripping in hiking trousers, so I'd recommend either machine straight stitch or a simple, basic running stitch by hand (as others say, you may need a thimble, esp with iron on webbing in the picture).
It's quite possible/probable? that your sewing machine has a removable accessories ~drawer(which isn't a drawer but I can't think of a better word) on the bed/arm that you sew on, removing which will help with sewing round narrow things like trouser legs, because then you can stick them onto the remaining area. If you can stitch straight around them with a medium length straight stitch (probably from the inside so you can get close to the edge), that should be serviceable and decent looking.
(You want two folds to your hem to conceal the raw edge, but the one at the raw edge can be shallow--we shoot for 1/4 inch in American parlance but I think 6-7mm may be appropriate? The other fold is for length, but could be as narrow as "covers up the turned under edge". I'd start snipping some of the leg off if you find you want the inside to land much more than 3ish cm up from the bottom fold. (...if this is making any sense). I expect hiking trousers to be fairly straight legged, but if they look more like \| or /|than || near the bottom, you may want to make the hem narrow, else there'll be difficulty fitting the edges to the cloth above it.)
I don't think I can explain running stitch verbally, but it should be easy to find online; to avoid snagging I'd probably try for 5mm or less stitch length, though depending on the fabric that might be difficult. It's okay if it's not super even, you just don't want long bits that might catch on twigs, briars, or other things of the woods.
no subject
no idea about grout
I concur with the full-fat coconut milk has more fat than almond milk crowd. I think I've had success using plain ground flax (i wouldn't expect it to be super expensive?) mixed with water in place of eggs once in American pancakes, but it's been a while. A yeasted overnight waffle recipe in one of my cookbooks mentions subbing veg oil for the butter in it (but that doesn't address the milk...)
I am not sure how much I can convey over text, but I grew up "paging through the Reader's Digest Guide to Needlework in clothes mostly sewn by my mom" which lends me the impulse "I can help!", despite not being an expert. (Or too helpful on the mending front, if it's not an actual seam)
My thought is that most hand hemming stitches, while nice for clothes for looks, might be prone to snagging or ripping in hiking trousers, so I'd recommend either machine straight stitch or a simple, basic running stitch by hand (as others say, you may need a thimble, esp with iron on webbing in the picture).
It's quite possible/probable? that your sewing machine has a removable accessories ~drawer(which isn't a drawer but I can't think of a better word) on the bed/arm that you sew on, removing which will help with sewing round narrow things like trouser legs, because then you can stick them onto the remaining area. If you can stitch straight around them with a medium length straight stitch (probably from the inside so you can get close to the edge), that should be serviceable and decent looking.
(You want two folds to your hem to conceal the raw edge, but the one at the raw edge can be shallow--we shoot for 1/4 inch in American parlance but I think 6-7mm may be appropriate? The other fold is for length, but could be as narrow as "covers up the turned under edge". I'd start snipping some of the leg off if you find you want the inside to land much more than 3ish cm up from the bottom fold. (...if this is making any sense). I expect hiking trousers to be fairly straight legged, but if they look more like \| or /|than || near the bottom, you may want to make the hem narrow, else there'll be difficulty fitting the edges to the cloth above it.)
I don't think I can explain running stitch verbally, but it should be easy to find online; to avoid snagging I'd probably try for 5mm or less stitch length, though depending on the fabric that might be difficult. It's okay if it's not super even, you just don't want long bits that might catch on twigs, briars, or other things of the woods.